My 3D Printing Tools and Materials

Nylon Zip ties / cable ties

You are probably thinking, why are zip ties on top of my list, and not a 3D printer? Well, that’s because, before ZIPGUY, my 3D printable action figure was even a thing, my first proof of concept was made out of aluminum tubing and zip ties! So yeah, zip ties all day long!

FLsun Q5

I’ve had this 3D printer since 2019. And as of 2024, it still is my go-to 3D printer for whipping out something quick. Also, watching a delta machine in action never gets old. Unfortunately, the Q5 has been discontinued to make way for newer, faster machines.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 – X3

This is a big printer. I don’t necessarily print big, but because of the large print area, I can throw in a bunch of parts and print them all at once.

This printer is great especially if you are using various types of filaments, like ABS, PETG, TPU, etc.

Full disclosure, I’ve already sold my two units of the X1, only because I didn’t have the room for them anymore. BUT if I were to have the space and the need for a 300x300x400mm build volume printer, I would definitely consider this especially that Artillery has released a greatly upgraded version of the X1, aptly called the X3.

Check the link for the full specifications:

Flush cutters and Precision craft knife (A.K.A. X-acto)

If you have bought a 3D printer, chances are, you already have a pair of flush cutters. But If haven’t already, go buy one, as you will be using it a lot for removing support material, cutting wires, etc. And for the case of assembling zip tie action figures, the X-acto blade is perfect for trimming the tail of the zip ties in awkward hard to reach places.

Get two of the flush cutters if you can, and a bunch of blades.

Caliper

You will have to calibrate your 3D printer at some point, and it will be absolutely necessary to track the dimensional accuracy of your printer, in order to adjust to print relatively precise parts. This is also crucial in dialing in the right tolerances for your action figure joints, which I have briefly touched on in my other blog post, in case you are interested: Design action figures for 3D printing, (3dzipguy.com)

Magnetic PEI FLEX Plate

Most available 3D printers today come with a semi textured build plate, that gives the filament something to grab on to while it is hot, generally eliminating the need for glue sticks and hair sprays for adhesion. The only problem is it tends to sticks too well. And when you are working on a ton or parts and could not wait for the bed to cool down in order to release the print, it could really slow you down. Not only did my PEI flex plate made the process way faster, it also drastically reduced the chances of breaking 3D printed parts in my case. That’s only because I would whack the parts with a blunt object, to detach it from the bed.

Don’t whack your parts. Get a magnetic PEI Flex plate

E7000 Industrial fabric glue

I use this glue a lot for making capes. I don’t really like sewing, but this is the lazy way to do cloth seams. Plus its an over all good adhesive.

Fabric glue

Here is another option. Specifically made for gluing fabric. Just pick both if you cant decide. its pretty cheap.

Rotary fabric cutter

For the life of me, I just can’t cut fabric with any pair of scissors, without messing it up. This rotary fabric cutting tool makes it easy to trace and cut curved and straight lines, without too much effort.